How-to-Guide
Measure Your Project
With a tape, measure the area of your planned lawn. Include these measurements on a sketch of the lawn area, with the length, width, and any unusual features. We will be happy to assist you in determining the amount of turfgrass sod you will need from your sketch.
Schedule your order for delivery of turf after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn.
| Referenced from Turf Grass Producers International |
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The accuracy of the determined amount of sod needed will depend on the accuracy of your measurements and unusual yard features present.
Prep Your Site
When installing sod, there are two important factors: (1) proper preparation of the installation site and (2) the capability to harvest the sod.
The following steps are essential to the establishment of a lawn:
1) Prepare the site prior to the arrival of the sod.
- Remove weeds and debris.
- Establish a rough grade and eliminate low spots.
- Spread and rototill a minimum of three (3) cubic yards of organics per 1,000 square feet at least four (4) inches deep.
- Level and rake the installation site until it is smooth
- Grade areas along sidewalks and driveways approximately one and one half (1 1/2) inches below top of concrete.
2) Have on site all hoses and sprinklers for the initial watering.
- Make sure sprinkler system is performing properly.
- Understand the operation of your sprinkler clock for proper watering of the new and established lawn.
3) Order sod to be delivered once site is prepared and the sprinkler system is understood and operating properly.
| Referenced from Rocky Mountain Sod Growers |
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Installation & Establishment of New Sod
4) Install the sod immediately after delivery.
- Arrange the rolls so there is a minimum amount of traffic on the prepared soil and the newly installed grass.
- Lay sod in a horizontal brick pattern;
- Once an area of approximately 15 feet by 15 feet has been laid, rolled and fertilized, water immediately. The objective is not to let the sod dehydrate.
- Butt ends and sides of the sod strips making sure there is no overlapping.
- Fit the sod around obstacles or in smaller places by merely cutting the dirt side with a sod knife.
| Referenced from Rocky Mountain Sod Growers |
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Maintenance Tips
| Fall & Winter Lawn Care from |
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Mowing
- Make sure the mower blade is sharp – ragged cuts tend to shred blade tips, exposing a larger surface area to disease, pests and water loss.
- Set the proper cutting height - you should be progressing to a lower cutting height as the plant begins to store food reserves. This will help harden and strengthen the plants’ roots and crown.
- Up to one inch of leaves can be mulched to serve as a protective cover during the coming cold season. However, too much could trap dampness that will lead to disease and pests. If in doubt, remove the debris with a mulching mower and dump it in the compost bin for recycling.
Aerating the Soil
Fall aeration is important for controlling thatch, an organic layer that often impedes proper water movement into the soil. It also allows more water to reach the root system, thus increasing winter hardiness. Fall lawn aeration and fertilization may be done at the same time.
Fertilizing
The fall application of fertilizer provides longer lasting benefits to a lawn than that of any other time of the year. It is very important to read, understand and follow instructions on the fertilizer label. Consult with a lawn care professional for additional information.
Watering
| For your City’s Current Water Restrictions & Guidelines: |
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Watering the Lawn
- Follow watering programs encouraged or mandated in your community
- Begin irrigating the lawn as soon as it is allowed; spring watering encourages healthy root growth
- Less frequent (once every 7-14 days, depending on temperature) spring irrigation will actually enhance turf drought resistance for the summer
- In communities where twice-weekly irrigation is allowed, good lawn quality can be expected throughout the spring and much of the summer
- Once-weekly irrigation will be adequate for the spring and early summer period
- Disregard for required community watering practices can result in substantial fines and may encourage communities to enact even stricter watering restrictions. FOLLOW THE RULES!
- As soon as irrigation is allowed in the spring, take time to refresh your understanding of how your irrigation system operates
- Learn how to program your control clock so that you irrigate according to the schedule mandated for your community
- Set the clock so that irrigation occurs between 6PM and 10 AM (or as otherwise allowed/mandated)
- Repair or replace broken irrigation heads
- Adjust irrigation heads to avoid throwing water on streets, driveways, and other hardscapes.
- If you find that adjusting or repairing your irrigation system is too time-consuming or challenging, hire an irrigation or landscape management specialist to perform this important work
- Your lawn care company professional may be willing to program your irrigation control clock for you
- Contact your local water provider for information on conducting an irrigation audit; some lawn care companies, landscape management firms, or irrigation installation firms will conduct an audit of your irrigation system for a modest fee
- On your watering day, irrigate using the following technique (unless otherwise mandated by local regulations):
- Apply 3/4 to 1 inch of water, slowly enough that runoff and puddling do not occur; DO NOT water again until the lawn begins to show signs of stress (a single spring watering may be effective for as many as 7-14 days, depending on weather)
- Cycling through irrigation stations or moving your sprinkler around the yard (applying smaller amounts of water, especially on slopes and berms) while irrigating helps water to soak more thoroughly and evenly into the lawn; repeat your cycle until the desired amount of water has been applied
- Hand-water small or isolated dry spots, where sprinklers don't overlap properly, to save water
- Remember to drain vacuum breakers and other aboveground pipes (and disconnect hoses from faucets) at night to prevent freezing damage to pipes and plumbing.
To take Watering even further, GreenCO suggests:
- Once all the sod is laid, begin watering to build up the sub-soil moisture. This is the most critical time to apply water. Up to one-half inch of water per day for the first two to three days may be required. Probe the soil to determine if the moisture has penetrated at least four inches.
- During the following two weeks, the amount of water needed will be similar to the chart below. Each day may require more than one application depending upon wind and temperature. The reason for several light applications is to keep the root zone and blades moist.
- Week three is used as a transition period from daily watering with frequent applications per day to an increased number of days between watering. During this time the grass should be ready for routine maintenance. By the end of the establishment period, the grass should be able to go several days between waterings depending on the season and weather.
- After initial three weeks, adjust watering times and sprinkler clocks to conform to any water restriction program in your area.
- When starting a lawn from seed, amend the lawn in a manner similar to sod and work in a starter fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label. Frequent, light waterings are needed until the seed has germinated and should then be reduced.
Water Maintenance
The approximate amount of water that needs to be applied each week for an average, traditional lawn to supplement normal rainfall is listed in the following chart:
Approximate Supplemental Water for an Average Traditional Lawn (inches per week)
| April |
May |
June |
July |
August |
Sept |
Oct |
| 1/4" |
3/4" |
1 1/4" |
1 1/4" |
1" |
3/4" |
1/2" |
The above data are based on historical averages and should be used as a guideline and not as a substitute for good judgment, reason and common sense. Under less-than-average rainfall conditions, the amounts shown in the chart should be increased. If there is greater-than normal rainfall, then the amount of supplemental water should be reduced.
- Measure the water applied by using rain gauges or cans placed on the lawn in areas covered by sprinklers.
- Become aware of dehydration signs: 1) Stage 1: grass has a purplish tint; 2) Stage 2: blades turn steel gray and foot prints are left when walked upon; and 3) Stage 3: grass blades turn straw color.
- Water the lawn uniformly until the soil is moist to a depth of 4 to 6 inches to encourage deep roots. Frequent, light sprinklings moisten only the surface and may cause shallow-rooted turfand increase weed seed germination.
- Proper irrigation can minimize the amount of fertilizer and other chemicals that are leached below the root one of the grass or washed away by runoff. Properly maintain the irrigation system to ensure that the irrigation is being applied at appropriate rates and to the turfgrass, not the sidewalk. (See the Irrigation BMPs for more information and click here.
- Follow a proper maintenance schedule to prevent stress, disease and turf injury. (Click here for guidance.)
Regional or Industry Considerations/Adaptations
- Particularly during recent drought conditions, Kentucky bluegrass has received significant attention as a high-water use plant. However, field studies have shown that bluegrass, with a base of properly prepared soil and proper irrigation, performs well at half of the recommended rate (evapotranspiration or ET) for supplemental irrigation. Therefore, the water use for bluegrass is not so much the grass itself, but how it is cultivated. For more information, click here.
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